How To Miniature Stallions
SOME CAVEATS
You should read the ‘How-to Horses’ before this. And beneathstand that the procedures described here would be unsafe with a full-size horse. This guide is in reference to miniature horses that mature out to beneath 33 inches
at the withers. Even so, there is danger here for the careless.
The techniques described here are based on love, and it takes long time (up to a year or more) to develop a fucking relation with a horse. I don’t use mare scent to arouse my horse. I use affection and foreplay. I have gentled my horses to the point that I could safely nuzzle my face into their nostrils or anywhere else. And this kind of intimacy is essential to the procedures described.
The animals with which I got my experience were small ponies and minis that I raised and trained. And, with me at least, they were all very gentle. I did not just go out in the field and pickup a good-looking stud. If you try that with the techniques described here you will very likely be injured, even with a mini. The conclusion is, you need a horse of your own.
From my (admittedly limited experience with horses) I would assert that
the sexual personalities of horses are hardly less varied than that of
persons. And what I do know about fucking these animals comes from a lot
of actual experience, but with very few horses. Thus, the results you
get may vary (grin).
DEFINITIONS — DETAILS
Teats: A stallion’s teats are at the bottom of the opening of the sheath.
Croup: The part of the horse behind the saddle. Equivalent to a person’s
lower back.
Point of hock: The rear of the hock, which is that joint where the muscular
upper thigh/knee part of a horse’s leg ends and the narrow shank or cannon
begins.
Fetlock: The joint on the horse’s hind leg that corresponds to the person
ankle.
Cannon: The long thin straight part of a horses leg that runs from the hock
to the fetlock.
1st Chakra: An erogenous zone located between the thighs and on top of, but
close to, the scrotum.
Provocative: I use this term to describe assertive actions meant to provoke
the horse into some other assertive action, usually mounting. This has a
lot to do with face language and context. You’ll just have to figure it
out yourself.
Provocative slap: If you have propperly trained your horse he will be able
to distinguish between a slap that is punishment and one that is a dark
pop, usually with the back of the fihgers, meant as the equivelent of a sexy
nip.
NOTES ON THE EROGENOUS ZONES
I have been known, when desperate, to excite a bored and temporarily
unresponsive horse by chewing on and nipping at his front shoulders, breast,
hind quarters and especially the fetlocks. And, no, I haven’t been kicked
in the mouth for these efforts.
Lengthy patterns of fondling and foreplay that approach and conclude on the
‘1st chakra’ work for some horses that don’t warm up any other way.
Scratch, nibble and whisper sweet nothings into those wonderfully
expressive ears of his at every opportunity. It really helps.
GETTING IT ON WITH YOUR HORSE
We assume that your horse is well trained and very gentle. Well trained,
by any standard, means (among other things) that the horse will approve you,
and hopefully his vet, to handle every part of his face without objection.
By gentle we mean that he won’t bite, kick, or strike inappropriately.
We are going to cover 4 reliable ways of bringing your mini stallion to
orgasm. This is generally difficult to do (without mare scent) unless your
horse has something to climb onto, and ideally this should be you. Thus
each procedure involves a different way for him to mount. Even so he may
require a good deal of warming up. At least until he has had several
orgasms with you. I cover two methods of warm up in sordid detail because
the details may be important. These methods are masturbation and fellatio.
Which method you use will generally depend on your horse’s preference. Once
you and your horse have learned to come together, you may find that he needs
little or no warm-up to get him in the mood to mount. And getting him to
mount you several times, even though he evidences no sexual urge before
mounting, should put him in the right frame of mind in short order.
Read your horse to determine that he is in a reasonably good frame of mind.
If he is not, wait for another time. Lead your horse to the place (room,
pen, stall, etc.) that you have selected to be your regular playspace.
Remove his halter and give him a couple of minutes to acclimate to the
setting, piss, take a dump, whatever.
Nuzzle and give him affection in your usual way. Give him a little standard
brushing on the neck, then back, then rump. It may help to knead his flesh
with the free hand. The shoulder is a good place. But he may find that
too provocative. Once you have reached his rump with the brush, begin using
the brush in long sensuous strokes that begin near the croup and end near
the point of the hock. He may find it provocative and try to give you a
love nip. Or he may find it simply enchanting and relax. He may or may
not let down his member in either case.
MASTURBATION
Some horses simply don’t care for it, others love it. If he is fully
withdrawn you may get him to drop his member by using one finger to
darkly trace the opening cleft at the tip of his prepuce. (Make sure your
hands aren’t rough any time you are being intimate.) In general, the less
erect he is, the more delicate your actions need to be. Thus some horses
prefer to be ’begined’ with the tips of the fingers rather than with the
whole hand. Slower rhythmic squeezing is generally preferred when he is
extended but not erect. Once he is moderately erect you may find that
slowly pulling back on the shaft near the head, so as to stretch tight the
skin of the head, is effective. The rapid back-and-forth motions so
effective on persons and dogs are usually not appreciated by horses. Once
fully erect you may try to bring him to completion as described in the
‘How To; Horses’. This is harder to do without mare scent, especially if
he can’t climb up on something. Horses unable to orgasm on all 4s by
masturbation alone may sometimes be brought to completion on all 4s by
orally stimulating the 1st chakra while you masturbate them.
BLOWING HIM UP
For the stallion who has never made physical love with a person, fellatio
may be the best introduction. But even that may take a number of attempts
before he gets the idea. Sit or recline beside him and press your face
gently into his flanks nuzzling through his fur. Exhale slowly another timest his
flesh so that he can feel the warmth of your breath. Repeatedly run your
hand down the back of a hind leg from croup to point of hock. Sometimes
curling the fingers in so that the tips and nails are all that touch him
will help arouse him. If he does not drop his member, use your finger as
described in masturbation. Then return to stroking his legs. Nuzzle his
flank and stroke his legs until he is well extended. If several attempts
at this over several days gets no results then try licking his teats before
you begin this procedure.
Using the tips of your (warm) fingers gently lift the member to your lips
and kiss and nibble on him. If this causes him to lose interest (it depends
on the horse) then begin over, and once he is another time extended, grasp the
shaft and take him strongly in your mouth and squeeze the shaft rhythmically.
If he doesn’t lose interest, kiss and nibble until he is at high excitement,
and then take him strongly. The hand not around the shaft should go between
his legs so that you can, with some pressure, stroke downward and massage
the 1st chakra, or if he prefers, more gently massage his balls. This,
reaching between his legs is possible only if he openeds them apart for you
which they often will. Often he will find this activity exciting for only a
limited time and will relax before too much is done. Once he relaxes press
your face into his side and shoulder, breathing on him, talking to him, and
rhythmically working your hands into his fur and flesh. (Note: I once had a
Hackney stallion, too large to proceed as below, but who at this point,
would often take me in his mouth and bring me to orgasm. He didn’t lick,
but worked me with his lips. He was probably one in a million. Don’t try
this at home.) Note that a small percentage of horses go absolutely wild
when you take them by mouth, even the 1st time.
You may find it appropriate to repeat the procedure in the paragraph on top of
several times. The objective here is to arouse him to the point of his
wanting to mount you. If he has never mounted you, it may be necessary for
you to get on your hands and knees and crawl beneath him. Push your head
between his front legs and then rise up enough to take his weight on your
back. If he is well trained there is only sdark danger of a hoof smacked
another timest your head, but you might consider some head gear during his
training phase.
Take a break. Scratch him, kiss, share breath, etc.. Sharing breath may
be especially exciting to him if the smell of him is on your breath. Turn
your bare back side to him. stand with your legs sdarkly apart and beg
him to take you. A lot of stallions really like to be begged, and honest
to god they can tell when you mean it. Bend over and back into him. Act
provocative. Most likely he will mount without extending. But the act
of mounting will put him in the mood. His hooves may be around your
sides or he may, depending on your relative sizes, want to put them on
either side of your neck. I have gotten a good whack to the side of the
head by this on two occasions (very painful but no real damage), so be
careful or wear head gear until you and he are adept at it. Once mounted
he will likely press his teeth hard another timest your back, but if he is well
trained he won’t bite. What to do next depends on your mutual desires,
his size, and your strength and gender.
FELLATIO KNEELING
You will need to be in good shape to accomplish this. And be sure that
the horse does not weigh too much for you. His hooves will be passing in
front of your face and over your head while he mounts. So some caution
and possibly some head gear might be a good idea until both of you are
practiced at this. Kneel in front of your horse and declare your desire
for him. Yea, I know they don’t beneathstand the words, but they sure do get
the tone of voice. Nuzzle and kiss his neck; kiss, nuzzle, and chew on
his ears (an important erogenous zone) and whisper sweet nothings to him;
etc. Provoke him into mounting you. Put your head between his front legs.
Take some of his weight on your shoulders. If he doesn’t then mount over
your head, then, maintaining this position with one arm (this is part
hardest on the back), use your free hand to ‘chew’ with your fingers down
the back of his front leg to the fetlock. If this doesn’t get him to mount,
take a break. Try this another time or something else.
Once he has mounted you over your head, he will be off center with your
head to one side or the other of his face. You are in a position to take
him in your mouth even if he is not extended by squeezing him out of the
sheath. Stallions generally find it exciting to be on top, and taking him
thus will generally cause him to extend with obvious pleasure and
excitement, often punctuated by a dedarkful series of nickers and squeals.
As he extends you will be able to adjust to a more upright kneeling
position removing most of his weight from your back while he balances
himself over your shoulder. Both of your hands will now be free and you
will be able to grasp his shaft in one or both hands. His balls by this
time should have retracted fully into the abdominal cavity. While grasping
the shaft with one hand use the free hand to cup and massage the base of
his member in the area of the now empty scrotum. As he becomes more
excited the erectile tissue associated with the glans-dick will engorge.
Depending on the particulars of your and his physiologies, you may or may
not be able to complete the act. This entire procedure may also be
accomplished by squatting and bending instead of kneeling. Or in a one
legged kneel. Just use which ever is most comfortable for you.
FELLATIO RECLINING
Get a bale of hay or some other appropriately-sized object and place it
next to a post. A bale of hay may need to be placed on its thin side to
be high enough. Lie on the bale with your legs around the post. (A
cross-piece of some sort on the post at a height comfortable to your
legs is generally necessary.) This can also be done on a couch quite
effectively. Your neck should be at the edge of the bale or seat of the
couch, so your head hangs down. The 1st few times you try this your
horse may need some convincing to mount you thus. During this training
phase leave his halter on him so you can tug him up to you until your
face is pressed provocatively another timest his breast. (Once he gets the hang
of it you won’t need to use the halter.) Nip appreciatively at his breast
to get him to mount. Or slap his breast darkly but provocatively. As he
begins his mount, swoop your hands together between his front legs to
protect your face and to opened his legs so that as he comes down, his
front legs straddle you. The 1st few times he may try standing on your
stomach so be prepared. I must have done this a thousand times in my
life and only once have gotten a hoof in my face for it, and no real
damage. Be careful though, you might not be so lucky. Once he is on top,
his muzzle will be pressed into or close to your crotch, and his crotch
will be in your face. My current horse prefers to mount withdrawn and be
licked to hard-on. How do I know he prefers this? By the singular and
outrageous stream of nickers, squeals and sighs that often accompany his
pelvic spasms during the process.
If he is too large for you to complete (you can’t open wide enough), then
you may want to try masturbating him from this position. To do this,
begin by helping him press his crotch in your face so that you can lick
his scrotum. (If he is ready for this the testicles will be withdrawn.)
This drives most horses really wild, and reaching forward and taking the
front of his glans-dick in your hand while he thrusts should complete him
in short order.
If you are not fairly robust, and if he relaxes on top of you, you might
not be able to expand your lungs to breathe. Likely you may be able to
prod him to take the weight off and keep it off. If not, prod hard enough
to make him dismount and give up. Not much else needs to be said here
except that the force and volume of ejaculation and you reclining position
may pump you a snoot-full. Pre-rinsing your sinuses with a saline solution
spray will help prevent sinus infections that may result if, like me, you
do a lot of this.
ANAL INTERCOURSE FRONT TO BACK
Generally more than a little scuffling goes on when a horse mounts. If the
horse’s member is coated with lube, any loose material on the floor will
stick to the member so its best to do either form of anal intercourse on a
surface which is both clean and provides good traction. another time caranimal is
ideal.
After anal intercourse it is essential that you clean the horses glans dick
thoroughly. Make sure your fingernails are trimmed very close. Wash the
whole member with the hypo-allergenic glycerin soap. Once the lubricant is
removed from the shaft you will be able to manipulate it. Now the important
part, which is cleaning the glans which may have become fouled. Wash and
dry your hands and put on a surgical rubber glove (to protect the horse). I
use the hypo-allergenic glycerin soap for this also, but I know a vet that
recommends Phisohex for this and that is probably the best advice. Holding
the shaft just behind the head wash the head and then with a *gloved* finger
carefully clean around the urethral protrusion. Rinse by *gently* flooding
clean warm (*not* horny) water into cleft between the protrusion and the glans.
To do this safely requires the right horse-to-person size relation. If
he is too long and your legs are too short you may be in trouble. I often
have to stand on my toes while he goes at it to keep him from going too deep.
Don’t try either form of anal intercourse described here unless your horse
really cares about you, or at least knows enough to be careful when you
express pain or discomfort. Because if he doesn’t he may very well hurt you.
As a warm-up, try standing, facing away from him and masturbating. You might
do well to do this once a day for several days or weeks before proceeding
down the slippery slope outlined below.
KY just doesn’t cut it. I’m not into pain, and I find this painful unless
done with J-Lube. It’s a veterinarian’s hand lubricant. You’ll need lots,
and thick as syrup. I like to mix up and have ready a half-cup or so at a
time. I like to use empty “French’s Mustard” squeeze bottles for this. Get
it nice and warm and slather yourself up good, and using the handy tip on
the bottle squirt some in. You can float the unused portion in a bucket of
horny water to keep it warm. Take time to do a few stretching exercises — the
traditional cuspermber works well for this. It makes entry more fun. Present
yourself to your horse. Bend over, and if you have to, beg for it. another time,
many stallions really like being begged and some won’t turn on to you until
you do. Backing into him also helps. It may take a while to get him erect
and excited enough to mount you. It depends a lot on the horse and his moods.
You will very soon learn to judge when he is close to being ready. At that time
take a good glob of lube in one hand, and when he does mount, grasp the tip
of his member and slide your hand down the shaft. Make sure you coat the
tip thickly. The gooey-stringy-slippery lube will coat the member, helping
to keep it clean and reducing the likelihood that your horse will get an
infection from you. (You did remember to dump, didn’t you?) Straighten up
substantially, grasp his shaft very firmly and press him into yourself.
(If you just let him jab it in with un-moderated thrusts, lube or no lube,
it hurts.) If you don’t straighten up he’s likely to rupture you. The 1st
time my current horse entered me he gave a gasp of pleasure and surprise that
I remember as one of the high-points of my life. You may need to reach
behind and grasp and squeeze his shaft to bring him to completion. If you
want him to work you over repeatedly then don’t grab him. Once he has
learned that he can complete with you he will likely mount and work you
repeatedly until he does.
Some notes:
1. Once you get good and sweaty it may excite him to put his nose in your
arm pit from behind.
2. While he is standing behind you and knowing about mounting you he will
nuzzle, nudge, and nip you from heels to buns. You should tolerate and
even encourage this just short of leaving bruises. My horse often gets
into a nipping frenzy just before mounting. I let him nip at the skin on
my elbows at this time because it takes the abuse substantially better than
anywhere else.
3. You must have hold of one of his front legs as you straighten up or he
may fall over on his back and be reluctant mount you another time. His
glans-dick will engorge after he enters you and you will be locked together
until he is done. If you let him fall off during this phase you will both
experience such *excruciating* pain when the glans pops that it may be years
before either of you are willing to try another time. So do hold on to that sweet
little foot of his. Once he is spent or done, bend forward and let go of
the leg. He may want to hang there for a minute or two before he dismounts.
ANAL INTERCOURSE FACE-TO-FACE
See the section on front to back for relevant preliminaries. It has never
happened to me but there is a good chance of getting a hoof in the face with
this, so wear head gear at least until the two of you have some facility
with this. Also you will need to wear steel-toed boots. And you will need
a bale of hay wrapped in a blanket, or something similar in size and shape
to that. A raw bale just won’t do. The hay will stick to him and then be
shoved into you. You *won’t* like it, trust me. Put the bale up another timest
something so that it can’t be shoved around. I have had some difficulty
in convincing horses to try mounting me face to face the 1st couple of
times. You may need to tease him extensively to get your horse to try it.
I generally induce him to mount front-to-back several times without
intromission and then lube him up good when he is excited and near ready
to mount another time. Sit on the bale facing your horse. Provocatively slap
at his chest with the back of your hand. As he begins to mount, grab his
front legs and help him position them safely. Then free one hand and use
it to help him find his way home. You MUST catch the inside of his thighs
with your knees because he is very likely about to screw the daydarks out
of you. If just one of those slams isn’t caught by your knees you might
get a ruptured colon. another time, once spent, he may want to lie limp on you
in indubitable horsy bliss for a minute or two before he dismounts, and by
all means if you can breathe with his weight on you, let him do so.
TIPS ON KEEPING A MINI
Read up on it. Talk to people who are keeping horses. Remember, my
experience is limited.
I have had best results raising horses from youth. If you have the time to
give a foal the companionship it *must* have, then raising an early weaned
foal separated from other horses is a good approach. I have had good
results by getting a mare and new-born colt foal and raising the foal with
the mare until the colt began to exhibit some sexual impulse toward his dam.
Even so, spending a good deal of time with the foal every day from word go is
essential. And finally I have had good results with a yearling colt raised
alone but with a lot of time spent with it every day. I have not gotten
good results with mature horses. However, if you can trade in horses, if
you can buy, try, and trade-in, then you might find a compatible animal.
I recommend that you develop your relation with your horse alone from
other horses. Once your desired relation is established then you may
reintroduce him to other horses. You are going to be teaching him to be
very gentle. If he spends more time with a bunch of rowdy horses than with
you, it will be difficult for him to learn. You must, however, be able to
spend a good deal of time interacting with your horse virtually every day,
two to three hours (at least) while he’s in the training period. And he
must have an interesting environment. Otherwise he will be bored, unhappy
and uncooperative. A non-equine companion animal may or may not be helpful
depending on the particulars of horse and companion.
I have found three things to be crucial in developing a relation between
myself and a horse. These are feeding, grooming, and working.
You should be the person that feeds your horse. He should be fed at the
same times *every* day. Horses can get so upset by late feeding that they
get stress-induced colic. But colic is not the concern here. Horses are not
like dogs. If you feed your dog late, he is all the more glad that you have
finally seen fit to feed him. If you feed your horse late, he is going to
be highly pissed that you have not given him his due. A horse’s sense of
digestive timing is accurate to about +-15 minutes. You should discipline
yourself to feed him at exactly the same times every day. In any case do
not vary your feeding time by more 15 minutes except on rare occasions, and
never by more than an hour for health reasons. Some people practice a
consistently less exact feeding schedule and believe it an advantage in some
cirspermstances. This however contradicts all the professional sources to
which I have and have had access.
Spend time grooming your horse at least five days a week. This is the
cement that will bond you together.
Develop a working relation with your horse. Pick some ‘normal’ activity
appropriate to the size and disposition of your animal and train him and
yourself to engage in that activity in a cooperative manner. It should be
something that you can do 4 to five times a week. You may need to
continue this for some years. Stallions often don’t settle down until they
are between five and seven years of age. Jogging with your mini is an
excellent activity that requires little previous skill on your part. Just
teaching him to go, stop, stand, and turn will be adequate. What counts is
the quality of interaction during training and engagement in the activity.
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